Neive Piemonte a village, a small jewel of the Langhe
I invite you to discover Neive, a small village in the Langhe of Barbaresco.
“The girl lived in Neive, the large village at the bottom of the valley overlooked by Mango, divided into two hamlets, the soprano dominating the grim slopes on the Tanaro river, the “sottano” rampant from the hill to the railway tracks, deserted and inactive since Armistice Day.”
Beppe Fenoglio
from “Il partigiano Johnny”
Let’s discuss Langhe, the region that hosts SlowDays, and where I live and work. Today, I went to Neive to discover another corner of great charm in the heart of Piedmont, perched on the hills towards the Roero.
I have prepared a guide with many ideas for discovering the charming medieval village, home to a great new feature! But I will reveal it to you at the end of the article. I will try to give you an idea of what to see, what to taste, and how to experience this enchanting village.
Neive perched on a low hill
Neive Piedmont: Where to find it
As already mentioned, we are in Piedmont, specifically in the province of Cuneo. We are just 13 km from Alba, a distance easily covered in about 15 minutes by car.
Neive is located on a low but panoramic hill, 308 meters above sea level.
It’s a little gem to explore. It was included in the list of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages and awarded the Italian Touring Club’s Orange Flag tourist-environmental quality mark.
How to get to Neive Cuneo
To reach Neive from Milan, you can drive about 153 km by car, crossing the A7 and the A21/E70.
On the other hand, a scenic route of about 65 km from Turin will take you through the hills of the Roero and Langhe to Neive.
For those who prefer public transport, the Turin-Bra-Alba-Neive and Asti-Alba railway lines serve Neive. The nearest airport is Cuneo Levaldigi, which is just 57 km away.
Neive is a small village, quiet and very slow, but it awaits you on a food and wine excursion. I recommend taking advantage of the mild spring weather or the magical autumn colors for a weekend visit.
Neive's alleys and shops
The history of Neive
Neive’s roots go back to the Neolithic period. The Ligurians and the Romans inhabited it. Neive experienced various dominations until it became a fief of the Savoy family. Over the ages, with interventions that have left their mark, it has developed its characteristic beauty, becoming a destination also known by many foreigners who know its name and want to include it in their tours of Piedmont and the Langhe.
Neive and the Unesco heritage
Neive Borgo is part of the prestigious Langhe-Roero e Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage Site, a deserved recognition for its extraordinary scenic beauty and the cultural richness of its villages. Since 2014, the Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato have been rightfully included for their wine-growing landscapes.
Together with other places of rare beauty, Neive enchants its vineyards, medieval village, and thousand-year-old traditions.
Around Neive
Neive What to see
Like many villages in the Langhe, Neive’s historical center will take you back in time. Narrow cobbled streets, period palazzi, and old houses with imposing gates welcome you to the village. To welcome you, you will find the Porta di San Rocco, flanked by the chapel of the same name. The chapel dates back to the 15th century and was restored with care and skill by architect G. A. Borghese in 1783.
Follow the road, and you will head towards the heart of the village. Admire the Palazzo dei Conti Bongioanni Cocito, an elegant example of Baroque architecture that overlooks Piazza Italia, a lively living room and meeting point for the town’s activities.
The green bench of Neive
Neive has also joined the Big Bench Project circuit. A historical bench, number 23, has a pastel green color, and you can find it on Crocetta. Its initial location was among the vineyards from Neive to Treiso, but it was not well laid out and accessible. Then, it found a home in this scenic spot you can easily reach.
If you are sitting on a bench, you can see the Barbaresco Tower in front of you, followed by the Roero hills and the inevitable castles.
If you are curious about Langhe benches, you will find plenty of information in the dedicated article on the Blog.
The giant green bench in Neive
Food and wine in Neive
Neive is beauty for the eyes, but you will soon realize it is also a delight for the palate. Many trattorias, wine bars, and wine shops will offer you a respectable food and wine journey. A glass of wine with a board of local cheeses and exceptional sliced meats such as cooked salami, jams, and breadsticks can almost constitute a meal. Here, they call it an aperitif!
At the table, you can delight in the usual ‘compilation’ of starters, the rich and tasty first courses, and the robust main courses that tempt you to drink a good glass of Barbaresco or Barolo. If you come in truffle season, it will be even more difficult not to be overwhelmed by the heady aromas and flavors.
The wines of Neive
Like many others in the Langhe, this area is particularly interesting for wine lovers. Here, in terms of cultivation and production, you will find four exciting wines: two red wines, Barbaresco and Dolcetto, and two excellent and very different white wines, Arneis and Moscato. I recommend tasting them in this order: Savory and mineral, fresh, and Arneis—a fragrant and intensely colored Dolcetto to accompany a tagliere. A Barbaresco to help you ‘meditate,’ and I would conclude with a glass of fresh Moscato to accompany the hazelnut cake. An overnight stay in the village is highly recommended!
Wineries of Barbaresco, Dolcetto, Arneis, Moscato
Weekend Indimenticabile
Neive is much more than just a village to visit in a day. You could consider it the starting point for a more extended stay in the Langhe. You will wander through the hills and return to the quiet streets of this village in the evening to dine and stroll. Spend the night in one of the many refuges created in the exposed brick houses overlooking the hills or the quiet lanes. It will be hard to leave!
Things to do in Neive
During your stay in Neive, as I wanted to tell you, you might decide to spend one or more days in the nearby Langhe. You could choose between an e-bike tour, a Vespa ride, a horseback ride, or a drive around the castles of the Langhe.
If, on the other hand, you fancy something different and playful and you are a family or a group of friends, then here is the SlowDays novelty for discovering this wonderful and characteristic village:
A photographic treasure hunt to discover hidden corners.
It’s fun to learn what is hidden behind so many characteristic corners!
Photographic Treasure Hunt in Neive
Romantic Road of the Langhe and Roero
Neive is one of the 11 stages of this beautiful road, conceived around 2007 by the mayors of several municipalities straddling the Langhe and Roero.
Just a few hints to describe the itinerary: With 11 stages and 130 km of scenic roads, you will enjoy both a physical and emotional journey. The Associazione Strada Romantica delle Langhe e del Roero has collaborated with the mayors of the local municipalities and tourist associations to create a unique route that allows visitors to explore the castles, vineyards, woods, and stage villages from various points of view. Along the way, you will find more than 300 literary highlights to enrich the experience. A combination of history, culture, and natural beauty, the Strada Romantica delle Langhe e del Roero will offer you a valuable and authentic experience to experience the heart of this beautiful area of Piedmont.
I list the stages and the title/theme that distinguishes them:
- VEZZD’ALBABA ‘ ‘Truffles, food and flavou’s’
- MAGLIANO ALFIERI – ‘The castles of Langa and Roero’.
- NEIVE‘ ‘A multitude of wines and vineyards’.
- TREISO – ‘The Fortresses of Fenoglio and the Resistance’.
- TREZZO TINELLA‘ ‘Travelling between the Alps and the Phil’s.’
- BENEVELLO‘ ‘The forest of Lan’a.’
- SINIO‘ ‘History of the Langa: the theatre of the hil’s’.
- CISSONE‘ ‘Man and the Langa land.’
- MURAZZANO – ‘Traditions of the Langa’.
- MOMBARCARO – ‘The Sea’.
- CAMERATA‘ ‘Hundreds of orchids and other flowers
Images of the Romantic Road of Langhe and Roero
Neive Langhe: Did I intrigue you?
If I have aroused your curiosity and you are in the mood for something beautiful, make up your mind; a trip to Neive may be worth it! And return home with a car full of wine and delicacies, photographs of the best moments to remember, and a great desire to return!
Practical Tips
Remember to book your desired activities and accommodation in advance, especially during the high season (Truffle Fair, first of all, but also the Wine Fair and weekends in June and September). Bring comfortable clothes suitable for hikes in the hills, and if you want to book some experiences, remember that last minute, in these parts, works very little!
Concluding
Neive is more than just a village in the Langhe: you will find an atmosphere of slowed-down time, respected traditions, and producers who will love to tell you about their work. Discover Neive, let yourself be surprised by its hidden corner,s and have a very slow experience in the hills of Piedmont. We are waiting for you in Neive, ready to make you fall in love with this corner of paradise. And I look forward to your comments and photos!
Bar to Bar trekking, from Alba to Neive
The Clock Tower, Neive
Porta San Rocco - Neive, Cuneo, Piedmont
Suggestions for some experiences in Neive, in the Langhe of Barbaresco
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